How to Surf Bigger, More Critical Waves

From Mushy Rollers to Heavy Bombs

So, you've been cruising on those friendly waist-to-chest-high waves, trimming down the line, maybe even throwing in a cheeky cutback. But now, you're eyeing those overhead waves—the ones that make your heart race just watching them break. How do you make the leap from fun, playful surf to tackling bigger, more critical waves with confidence? Let’s dive in!

1. Build Your Foundation: Strength, Fitness, and Mental Toughness

Bigger waves demand more from your body and mind. You’ll need endurance, strength, and confidence. Start incorporating paddle training into your routine by paddling for extended periods in flat water or doing sprint paddles in smaller surf. Your arms, shoulders, and back need to be strong to power into waves and handle the paddle back out.

Breath control is also essential. You can practice holding your breath through apnea training or controlled breath-hold exercises in a pool. Being able to stay calm underwater for an extra few seconds can make a huge difference in a heavy wipeout. Leg and core strength will help with stability on steep takeoffs and powerful bottom turns. Incorporate squats, lunges, and balance exercises into your training.

Mental preparation is just as crucial. Confidence stems from good experiences. Usually if someone gets worked in big waves, they can get rattled and lose confidence for next time. So start small, and take it one step at a time. A real world example of this is from our friend and ambassador Liam O'Callaghan. Liam is a big wave surfer who is currently training to surf Mavericks (one of the most deadly waves in the world). He has never yet caught a wave at mavericks, but he paddled out on a big, dangerous day anyways just to remain in the channel and start to become acclimated to the size and power of the waves. From the channel he was able to visualize possible take off points, run through possible scenarios in his head if things went wrong, and simply adjust his eyes to the sheer magnitude of these waves. This experience lended him confidence for next time when he hopefully catches a wave. If Liam paddled out first go and started charging on any wave he saw, he would have certainly gotten drilled and injured, or worse.

On a smaller scale, apply this knowledge in your own surfing journey. Work on paddling out on bigger days at surf spots that have a channel. Watch other people surf these waves and learn from them. Then when you are ready, go for waves. These experiences with lend themselves to the confidence and mental fortitude. 

2. Dial in Your Equipment

Your standard shortboard might not cut it in bigger surf. As waves get bigger, a step-up board (a slightly longer, more volume-packed board) will give you the extra paddle power and control you need to navigate the drop and drive through the face. A step-up typically runs 2-4 inches longer than your standard shortboard, with slightly more thickness to provide stability at high speeds.

Your leash is another crucial piece of equipment. A thicker, longer leash will provide extra security so you don’t lose your board in heavy surf. Make sure to check your leash for any signs of wear or weakness before heading out.

Fin setup can also impact performance. A thruster setup provides a balance of speed, control, and maneuverability, while a quad setup can offer extra hold and drive in fast, hollow waves. Experiment with different setups to see what feels best for your approach.

3. Master Your Positioning and Wave Selection

Larger waves move faster and break with more force. Positioning is key—sitting too far inside will get you caught in the impact zone, while sitting too far outside might mean missing waves. Spend time studying the break, noting where the bigger sets land and where the best surfers position themselves. Paddle out with intent, and don’t just follow the crowd.

Reading waves in bigger surf is different than in smaller waves. You need to anticipate how the wave will break—whether it will barrel, crumble, or offer a long, open face. Look at the shape of the wave as it approaches, and position yourself accordingly. If a wave is peaking further down the line, adjust early rather than scrambling at the last second.

4. Nail Your Takeoff

A late or weak takeoff on a bigger wave can end in disaster (or at least a solid washing machine experience). You need to commit fully—paddle with everything you’ve got, pop up quickly, and set your line immediately. A strong paddle technique is key—long, deep strokes rather than frantic splashing will generate the speed you need to match the wave’s energy.

If the drop is especially steep, angle your board slightly toward the shoulder as you take off rather than going straight down. This will help you avoid free-falling and will set you up for a smoother transition into your bottom turn. Keep your weight slightly forward during the takeoff but be ready to shift back quickly to prevent nosediving.

5. Stay Calm and Handle the Wipeouts Like a Pro

Bigger waves mean heavier wipeouts. If you’re going to push your limits, you have to be comfortable taking some beatings. When you wipe out, stay relaxed, protect your head, and avoid fighting the turbulence—let the wave have its way with you, then come up calmly. Holding your breath for longer periods will help, and staying relaxed will reduce your oxygen consumption.

Learn how to fall properly. If possible, try to fall away from your board to avoid getting hit. If you get sucked over the falls, tuck into a ball to minimize your chances of injury. When resurfacing, use one arm to shield your head and come up cautiously to avoid getting hit by another wave or someone else’s board.

Having solid duck-diving or turtle-rolling skills will help you manage the paddle back out. Time your duck dives efficiently, and use the energy of the wave to propel yourself forward rather than just bracing for impact.

6. Respect the Lineup and Know Your Limits

Bigger waves bring out more experienced surfers, and respect in the lineup is crucial. Observe priority rules, don’t paddle straight to the peak, and always be aware of others around you. If you hesitate on a wave, someone else who was committed might have to adjust, creating a dangerous situation.

If you’re new to bigger waves, it’s okay to hang out on the shoulder and watch for a while before committing. Be honest with yourself about your abilities—pushing your limits is great, but charging waves beyond your skill level can put you and others in danger. If you’re not ready for double-overhead waves, start with overhead surf and work your way up.

7. Practice, Progress, and Have Fun!

Surfing bigger waves takes time, patience, and practice. Start small and gradually work your way up—head-high waves before double-overhead bombs. Find a buddy to push your limits, celebrate the small wins, and enjoy the ride!

Film yourself surfing bigger waves to analyze your technique and make adjustments. Watching footage can reveal positioning mistakes, paddle technique inefficiencies, or takeoff hesitations that you may not notice in the moment.

Most importantly, have fun. The journey to surfing bigger waves is as thrilling as the waves themselves. Take your time, trust the process, and before you know it, you’ll be dropping in on the best waves of your life. See you out there!